re-wrap
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While I've seen the real experts here recommend a commercial hot air "gun", various razor blades and sanding or scuffing materials before, I had to do some of that recently.
I had the hot air gun, used for shrinking shrink tubing and lifting paint, tar and other stuff, etc, but rather than start with using THAT I started for a hair dryer that I also had, and knew was actually WAY too hot for my to use normally on my short haired head!
Using my commercial gun might have delaminated the 50 year old blank that I was re wrapping, and after having enough heat just from the hair dryer I'd say start there, especially if this is the first time that you've done this job.
The main thing is BE CAREFUL, don't knick or cut into the blank, take your time, you might be surprised how easy it is to take off the wrapping that is there, especially if it is older, with just a little heat, some CAREFUL knife work with something less than Exacto sharp, and a little steel wool ......
I had the hot air gun, used for shrinking shrink tubing and lifting paint, tar and other stuff, etc, but rather than start with using THAT I started for a hair dryer that I also had, and knew was actually WAY too hot for my to use normally on my short haired head!
Using my commercial gun might have delaminated the 50 year old blank that I was re wrapping, and after having enough heat just from the hair dryer I'd say start there, especially if this is the first time that you've done this job.
The main thing is BE CAREFUL, don't knick or cut into the blank, take your time, you might be surprised how easy it is to take off the wrapping that is there, especially if it is older, with just a little heat, some CAREFUL knife work with something less than Exacto sharp, and a little steel wool ......
Heat from a hair dryer and a box of very new single edge razor blades. Heat the wraps and then use the sharp new razor and slice the thread that is on top of the guide foot. Make your cuts on top of the guide foot only and you will not cut into the blank. Pull off the soften epoxy/thread with your finger...using your finger nails to loosen the epoxy/thread from the guide. Use more heat if necessary to re-soften the epoxy. Change to sharp razors as needed. They are cheap. Use heat and your finger nails to scrape off any excess epoxy that does not come off with the thread. Do not use anything hard or sharp as a scraping tool. If done correctly, with sufficient heat, that epoxy will just peal off. Do not use steel wool or anything abrasive. If you are going to re-coat the blank before re-wrapping, use a very fine sandpaper like 1500 or 2000 grit wet with water before re-coating. Very light sanding as you only want to take off the gloss so that the permagloss will adhere. Use the heat and your finger nails to remove the epoxy. I use permagloss for re-coating and I use my fingers for squeegeeing the finish. You need very little. Just wet your finger tips and squeegee the permagloss on with an ever so light coat. Let dry and you are ready to re-wrap the rod.
This post edited by jureal 06/03/2008
This post edited by jureal 06/03/2008
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130 Posts
I really appreciate all your advise and help. I'm confident that I have a good chance of not screwing up the blank now! Its a 25 year old Sabre 270 8 1/2' rod, the first one I ever wrapped, and I think now it's time to do it right. Thanks again guys.
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