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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally got some time to work on the trawler. I had to put my work truck in for a major "makeover" - Skaug utility bed with boxes, complete re-paint of the cab while the bed is off, and new headliner - and convinced my customers that I needed a "vacation".

This also coincided with the mechanic, engine parts from Isuzu, and custom stainless steel exhaust exchanger-thingy showing up at the same time.

Here's a pic of the exhaust exchanger installed. You'll notice the previous-owner-installed Vacu-flush in the left-back ground. The motor to make this thing work had to be tracked down and the rest of it has to be re-wired. But besides THAT, "it works just fine" x(



Got new batteries in their new battery boxes. Here are the 4 - T-125s in their boxes. These are the house batteries. The D8 (8D?) for the diesel is right next to them in its box that cost more than the Group 24 battery that is next in line and designated "generator battery"



I've also been rebuilding the mast and relocating the mounting base down to the top of the rear stateroom instead of up on the bridge level. This was done for ease of raising and lowering for future maintenance. The radar and deck lights will be mounted just above the bridge level canopy. As the mast definitely sways from side-to-side, it needs to be rigged with stays...but it will work for right now.

Mast base mount and bridge level support:
http://www.allcoastsportfishing.com/photos/uploads/107406/DSC00108.JPG[/im]

Backing plate for the base plate. This, the bridge level support, and the mast base is vertically laminated 1x2 teak that used to be a bow pulpit:
[img]http://www.allcoastsportfishing.com/photos/uploads/107406/DSC00105.JPG

Here is the mast in the upright position. The stay spreaders mount just above the canopy, with the radar just above that.


The mast is being painted. The radar mount has been pre-fit. And I have to run 12 gauge wire up the middle.

This girl "pees like a race horse". And after more than 5 years of silence, she purrs like a kitten with less than 1300 hours:


The teak transom will be stripped and varnished in the next few days. (The teak is applied over the fiberglass hull) I'm also stripping all the window trim & misc trim of that orange polyurethane "stuff" and varnishing the natural wood.

I've discovered that the steering hydraulics is TOAST! The seals at both wheels are quite loose/wiggly/they leak! So, the steering hydraulics have to be replaced and I'm waiting (IM)patiently for the new system to arrive: Two new pumps (one at each helm station) and a new ram at the rear. I'm hoping that the original compass-based auto-pilot is still operational and we'll be tieing the new hydraulics into it.

When the steering is resolved, she's off to her new home at Channel Islands/Ventura.

There is still a rear shower that needs a new floor and a bridge helm that needs re-wiring and its own set of electronics. But, what the heck. Isn't that what God made "winter" for? Besides, I need some coast guard classes before I get too carried away. ;)
 

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Looking good Wils. Do you have a slip lined up yet? Most of my friends up here are complaining that the slips are going up in price and the remodels of the marinas are resulting in fewer slips available.
 

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Great project!

The previous owners should be shot for letting the engine end up looking like that.


See ya up here at the islands!!


Edit:

I'm not familar with that engine, but is that safe to have the water input to the exhaust right at the manifold, with no uphill before the water is injected on the downhill side?
 

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i'm guessing the water enters a seperate chamber that helps cool things before actually mixing with the exhaust about 2/3 the way down....at least i hope so.
 

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Well Bill, It appears we will never get our Trawler board! ;( Based on this pic, I see a pile of green wire in the bilge, does that mean you are also re-wiring the bonding system?



Also, you may want to check the rudder arm shaft bearings, since the boat sat for that long! Great project, keep us posted! Bill
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The new exchanger was duplicated from the factory unit. everything is as it was before. I'm not the man to be double-guessing Isuzu on this. And my mechanic had no question about it.

Quite frankly, I have no idea what you guys are talking about. But I can think about your questions and try to put my hands on the water lines and follow the water flow?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
> Based on this pic, I see a pile of green wire in the bilge,
>does that mean you are also re-wiring the bonding system?

Yes, I'll be cleaning up the bonding system. Some connections are just twisted together.
 

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>
>The new exchanger was duplicated from the factory unit.
>everything is as it was before. I'm not the man to be
>double-guessing Isuzu on this. And my mechanic had no question
>about it.
>
>Quite frankly, I have no idea what you guys are talking about.
>But I can think about your questions and try to put my hands
>on the water lines and follow the water flow?
>
>


Tony Athens has a great article at sbmar.com on exhausts.

I meant no disrespect to you, your mechanic, or isuzu.


I think you can replumb the smaller bypass line out the side of your wheelhouse near wl. That is a cool visual to know your engine is getting water.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
>I meant no disrespect to you, your mechanic, or isuzu.

None taken. You asked an honest question and that was the only answer that I could give you. I'll be learning more about how these systems operate as time goes on...and as people make more observations.
 

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>these systems operate as time goes on...and as people make
>more observations.

How about some Ospho, wire brushing, and some high gloss white paint?

A spotless rust free engine is a happy engine!!!

I did this in my junk trawler years ago as I considered that part of the boat the top priority. The clean white paint shows you where leaks/problems are so you can take fast action when they happen.

It is cheap, brainless, and you have plenty of room to do it.



EDIT:

I remember I changed out my old rusted engine mounts. Not only did that let me align the engine to shaft easily, it reduced the noise/vibration with the new rubber. Just a thought.

Keep us updated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
>How about some Ospho, wire brushing, and some high gloss white
>paint?
>
>A spotless rust free engine is a happy engine!!!
>
>I did this in my junk trawler years ago as I considered that
>part of the boat the top priority. The clean white paint shows
>you where leaks/problems are so you can take fast action when
>they happen.
>
>It is cheap, brainless, and you have plenty of room to do it.

Now we're talkin'. Wirebrush, vacuum, and wild spray cans! :)
(plus R&R various hoses and double clamping. ugh)


>I remember I changed out my old rusted engine mounts. Not only
>did that let me align the engine to shaft easily, it reduced
>the noise/vibration with the new rubber. Just a thought.

The mounts were mentioned by my mechanic; the one in the picture specifically. They'll eventually be replaced.
 
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