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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking to replace a tired Volvo fuel injected 350 on my new to me rig. What are my options without hurting the pocketbook? If there is such a thing. Thanks, David.

This post edited by SWEET MARISSA 05/15/2008
 

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SWEET MARISSA said:
Looking to replace a tired Volvo fuel injected 350 on my new to me rig. What are my options without hurting the pocketbook? If there is such a thing.

Thanks,
David.
Are you going new or used?

I'm going to sell one of my twin 454s w/duoprop and make my boat a single.

If new, you have many options.

Here are some volvo prices if you are sticking to that brand:
http://marinepartsexpress.com/engines.shtml#gasio


What rig did you get?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Picked up a 1995 Davis 22 Ahi they have since changed the name to Cortez. I will put up some pics when I pick her up tomorrow. This whole i/o thing is a little new to me.

With the way things are going at the pump the 350 should do me okay.
I found a freshwater cooled 300hp mpi mercruiser today withless than 200 hrs. Price is right just need to know if it will work with the existing drive. (280DP)

Thanks for the comeback.
David
 

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I'm doing mine right now. I have chosen to go with Marine Power drop in 350s.

Michigan Motors will end up costing more than you'll be able to get the engine locally ... believe me, I've shopped around. The shipping, core, etc, all adds up!

As far as 305s sipping less fuel, that is questionable. I was running 305s until this repower. Based on my research, 350s have more torque and it comes on at a different point in the power band, therefore, allowing the engine to run more efficiently and conserve fuel ... the 350 should be more economical. Do some research and decide for yourself.

BTW: I've got a Volvo Penta AQ225D (305) for sale if you want it ... less than 300 hours. A complete engine for next to nothing!
 

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I replaced a 5.7GM with an 8.1GM in a 24' Skipjack and am actually burning less fuel. The engine has newer and more efficient fuel and ignition systems. Also, note that this year, new engines sold in California must have catalytic converter. Has anybody got one yet?
 

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305ci engines have 300ft lb of [email protected]? I think there 300ft/lbs is at 4000rpm 350ci has 350 ft lbs [email protected] Same TQ 260hp/350hp Mag. More HP gets more RPM. Couple of years 96/97? [email protected] 383ci efi Merc has 390 ft lbs tq 325 prop [email protected] Unfortunately seems the 383ci with carbs are built motors. Fairly radical cams. Min 400hp and 440 ft lbs [email protected]? There tq curve is like 400 [email protected] going up to [email protected] Max rpm is 6000 or more. That will get you moving8) The TQ is what moves the boat. The more tq you have. The bigger prop you can run.(faster) Lowering your rpms at your cruise speed for better mpg. HP is more of a relation to RPMs The big blocks have some very nice numbers. The 8.1s 375hp/425hp were in the 500tq/550tq range. I did some research for when I'm ready to repower. These were Chevy/Merc marine numbers. Took a long time to find this stuff. Enjoy:) O'YEA.. The 454ci 325hp had 440ft lbs tq. I believe at 3200rpm The motors are supposed to be most efficient at the max TQ [email protected](

This post edited by Broken Rod 05/16/2008
 

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The Marine Power engine is 315 horse, carbureted, or 325 horse, MPI. I have chosen the carbed unit and it puts out 358 lb-ft @ 3200 rpm. This puts most of the torque in a useable area of the powerband ... cruise! Hopefully, with the addition of a Floscan I'll be able to trim her out and make her sip fuel. Marine Power has bigger power plants that you might want to look at. You'll certainly save some cash selecting their product over VP or Merc.

This post edited by piperca 05/16/2008
 

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Most boats are under power and you got to really run the engnie at a higher rpm to get them to preform..no wonder they wear out quicker. These pour motors are always running up hill and at high RPMs, causing the piston rings to break down faster. If you got to push your engine pass 3200rpm to get it to preform right, than your contributing to the problem. Why to diesel last so long, because they are turning at a slower rpm and producing the same torque. Most of you know or should know that the top travel of a piston in power stroke "compression" is where the most heat and pressure occurs and those little ring can only take so much, no to mention the cylinder walls " which by the way to were most of the wear occurs". So if you have a engine the requires a higher RPM to produce the same torque, i dont think you gain much in fuel economy, because the engine won't last as long... I hope I am understood here...Oh yea cat converter in boats, let wait and see on that one.. Bet the first recall is because some poor guys boat caught on fire at the Butter Fly
 

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Dave go buy a new long block from GM $2100.00 or close to it and bolt you stuff back on to it, drop it in and go. Oh you might have to change the cam shaft too while your at it. Dang I got one I should just rebuild somebody going to need it...
 

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finfever1 said:
Dave go buy a new long block from GM $2100.00 or close to it and bolt you stuff back on to it, drop it in and go. Oh you might have to change the cam shaft too while your at it. Dang I got one I should just rebuild somebody going to need it...
A GM marine crate motor I would think could be bought at a dealer.
Has proper cam, gaskets, etc.
Or your mechanic could pick one up there?
 

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piperca said:
The Marine Power engine is 315 horse, carbureted, or 325 horse, MPI.

I have chosen the carbed unit and it puts out 358 lb-ft @ 3200 rpm. This puts most of the torque in a useable area of the powerband ... cruise!

Hopefully, with the addition of a Floscan I'll be able to trim her out and make her sip fuel.

Marine Power has bigger power plants that you might want to look at. You'll certainly save some cash selecting their product over VP or Merc.
The Vortec 5.7 TQ was 355FT lbs tq.
Maybe Merc and Volvo? run the TQ at higher RPMs due to the high number of Express cruiser/and runabouts there powerplants are used in.
The marine power your talking about. Is that the inboard motors?
Heard they are the most reliable gas inboard motors. Actually built from the block up. Not a converted Auto engine.
Not sure about using them in a stern drive boat.
Different Bellhousing (Starter location) etc. Dont know if the stern drive parts will bolt on to there motors. Worth looking into.

I just installed a fuel flow gauge. Hoping for better MPG also.
 

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finfever1 said:
Dave go buy a new long block from GM $2100.00 or close to it and bolt you stuff back on to it, drop it in and go. Oh you might have to change the cam shaft too while your at it. Dang I got one I should just rebuild somebody going to need it...
The brand new Base GM MARINE 5.7 that Micigan Motorz has posted go from 2300.00 to 2600.00 depending on years.
Order one through a local dealer?

Older year motors Mid 80s had flat tappet camshafts.
The motor oils today no longer have zinc in them. protecting against metal on metal contact. Diesel motor oil has plenty of zinc.

The newer motors are running roller cams.
No problem with the oils of today.
 

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Broken Rod said:
The Vortec 5.7 TQ was 355FT lbs tq. Maybe Merc and Volvo? run the TQ at higher RPMs due to the high number of Express cruiser/and runabouts there powerplants are used in. The marine power your talking about. Is that the inboard motors? Heard they are the most reliable gas inboard motors. Actually built from the block up. Not a converted Auto engine. Not sure about using them in a stern drive boat. Different Bellhousing (Starter location) etc. Dont know if the stern drive parts will bolt on to there motors. Worth looking into. I just installed a fuel flow gauge. Hoping for better MPG also.
I am installing the following engine which is designed specifically for older Volvo Penta sterndrive applications: E5.7V-VR1 315hp/235kw ENPAC - Complete Inboard/Outboard Engine Package Designed to Replace Specific Volvo Packages -Includes : ParPac plus, 12¾" Flywheel, Damper Plate, Volvo -Style Replacement Manifolds and Risers, Seawater Pump, 3' Harness Extension, Alternator, High Torque Bottom Mount Starter, Engine Wiring Harness, Fuel/Water Separator, Flame Arrester, Single Sender Package, Weather Cover, EZ Oil Drain, Superior Corrosion Resistant Urethane Paint. Two Year Limited Warranty Here is a link: http://www.perfprotech.com/store/App_Themes/PPT/images/tech-specs/57volvomp.pdf I have to use my old bellhousings, but, after that, it just hooks right up. The engine comes with a wiring adapter that plugs right into the Volvo Penta wiring harness, so it is basically plug and play. Like you were saying, I have heard nothing but good things about Marine Power, too, hence the decision to purchase their product ... definitely worth a look!

This post edited by piperca 05/17/2008
 

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piperca said:
Broken Rod said:
The Vortec 5.7 TQ was 355FT lbs tq. Maybe Merc and Volvo? run the TQ at higher RPMs due to the high number of Express cruiser/and runabouts there powerplants are used in. The marine power your talking about. Is that the inboard motors? Heard they are the most reliable gas inboard motors. Actually built from the block up. Not a converted Auto engine. Not sure about using them in a stern drive boat. Different Bellhousing (Starter location) etc. Dont know if the stern drive parts will bolt on to there motors. Worth looking into. I just installed a fuel flow gauge. Hoping for better MPG also.
I am installing the following engine which is designed specifically for older Volvo Penta sterndrive applications: E5.7V-VR1 315hp/235kw ENPAC - Complete Inboard/Outboard Engine Package Designed to Replace Specific Volvo Packages -Includes : ParPac plus, 12¾" Flywheel, Damper Plate, Volvo -Style Replacement Manifolds and Risers, Seawater Pump, 3' Harness Extension, Alternator, High Torque Bottom Mount Starter, Engine Wiring Harness, Fuel/Water Separator, Flame Arrester, Single Sender Package, Weather Cover, EZ Oil Drain, Superior Corrosion Resistant Urethane Paint. Two Year Limited Warranty Here is a link: http://www.perfprotech.com/store/App_Themes/PPT/images/tech-specs/57volvomp.pdf I have to use my old bellhousings, but, after that, it just hooks right up. The engine comes with a wiring adapter that plugs right into the Volvo Penta wiring harness, so it is basically plug and play. Like you were saying, I have heard nothing but good things about Marine Power, too, hence the decision to purchase their product ... definitely worth a look!
Thanks for the info. Very nice motor there. It was the crusader inboards that build there own block? (From a post I read) That motor may not have t bolt pattern for a sterndrive.

This post edited by Broken Rod 05/18/2008
 

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Good luck with your repower.
I'm hoping to get two more seasons out of my motor.
Will upgrade the drive at the same time.

Ive been told I should get a Bravo 2. (Big strong single prop)
Yet, Seems all the boats are running/upgrading to Bravo 3 (duo Props):?
 
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