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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Gotta question for the dancin' banana plumber. My daughter clogged the kitchen sink good (she used a bunch of coffee grounds) and the "usual" elbow grease method isn't doing anything. What would a plumber do? Please don't say call one and find out. :)
 

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HD said:
Gotta question for the dancin' banana plumber. My daughter clogged the kitchen sink good (she used a bunch of coffee grounds) and the "usual" elbow grease method isn't doing anything. What would a plumber do? Please don't say call one and find out. :)
Roto-Rooter Service call: $115 +/-
Roto-Rooter disassemble sink drain trap: $95 +/-
HDs' "plumbers' crack": just ruined my day. [email protected]
 

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Dump a old core battery in it. Acid 8*:tu:
Just Kidding.
Try running a snake down from the roof sink vent. Or,

1) Clean out all the stuff under the sink.
2) Lay down a old towel and put a small bucket under the p trap.
3) Use a large pair of channel locks or pipe wrench and take the trap apart. Lay the pieces and seals (rings) on newspaper in order removed.
4) Check for the p trap for a clog, try a cote hanger hook tool in the 1 1/2" pipe going into the wall.
Find it ? :tu: :td:
No 5) Remove the 1 1/2" nipple going in the wall.
6) Try the hook tool or snake down the Y in the wall.
7) Reassemble the trap. You Da Man.
Call the plumber @(
Say 'NO' to Crack !
DR
 

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Lye usually works if you give it the time, and it?s cheap and easy. If the sink is on an exterior wall, it may have a cleanout outside. Take the plug out and run a hose up to flush it out, this works pretty often. Leaves kind of mess in the driveway, but a lot of plumbers do as well.
 

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Bruce, if you can determine the approximate location of the stoppage, that would help to advise you how to attack it. If it's high in the system, then you can get it by removing the trap and tailpieces under the sink....an easy job if your pipes are true and not bound and tweaked. If they are old tubular brass, you might want to replace them with PVC plastic. When you tried to "plunge" it, you packed the grounds tighter, as in making espresso :)
Most often a stoppage of this nature is at the divisional tee, where both (or three wells) compartments attach together, as it narrows at this junction. That is easy to determine, as you'll still have a compartment that drains.
If it's further down in the horizontal waste, you'll need a snake or blow bag (jet), a very messy job if the sink is in the interior of the house, as opposed to being located on an outside wall with a clean-out. If it is on an outside wall, and you have a clean-out....pull it. If water comes out, you're stoppage is downstream, if not, it's under the sink, predicated your c/o is not remote, or located very far from the sink.
If in fact its downstream, and coffee caused it to stop....call a plumber and router it out, for you have a very restricted line to begin with. I don't know how old your house is, but....the kitchen sink drain line (under the house) is the first line that fails and needs to be replaced, in most circumstances.

I'd do it for you but my service charge to travel would kill you :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
eddie haskell said:
Bruce, if you can determine the approximate location of the stoppage, that would help to advise you how to attack it. If it's high in the system, then you can get it by removing the trap and tailpieces under the sink....an easy job if your pipes are true and not bound and tweaked. If they are old tubular brass, you might want to replace them with PVC plastic. When you tried to "plunge" it, you packed the grounds tighter, as in making espresso :)
Most often a stoppage of this nature is at the divisional tee, where both (or three wells) compartments attach together, as it narrows at this junction. That is easy to determine, as you'll still have a compartment that drains.
If it's further down in the horizontal waste, you'll need a snake or blow bag (jet), a very messy job if the sink is in the interior of the house, as opposed to being located on an outside wall with a clean-out. If it is on an outside wall, and you have a clean-out....pull it. If water comes out, you're stoppage is downstream, if not, it's under the sink, predicated your c/o is not remote, or located very far from the sink.
If in fact its downstream, and coffee caused it to stop....call a plumber and router it out, for you have a very restricted line to begin with. I don't know how old your house is, but....the kitchen sink drain line (under the house) is the first line that fails and needs to be replaced, in most circumstances.

I'd do it for you but my service charge to travel would kill you :p
Dual sink on ext. wall, both sides clogged. Have a plug on the outside wall that the plasterers sealed good & tight. @( Once I manage to get that open, what should I do? Try running a hose from one side or the other?
 

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Get the clean out off, even if you have to break it and replace the plug/cap....not the fitting it screws into. If water flows out, from the standing water in the sink, you have to go down that drain to clear, which, will need a power cable/snake. Go rent one. DO NOT use any liquid cleaner. If you already did, wear and old long sleeve shirt/jacket, gloves, eye protection, as that stuff will burn you.
If no water comes out, I already offered to you what to do in the first reply.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What's a blow bag? Sounds like something you hide in an oval office. The blockage must be above the outside drain, no water came out. EDIT: I managed to fix the damn thing and learned why plumbers make so much. It has little to do with the actual mechanics involved but rather, the assault to the olfactory senses. I got seasick...under my kitchen sink. Gawd that was awful! Had to disinfect my myself from the inside out!

This post edited by HD 05/22/2008
 

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